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roman

This first design is essentially an evolution of the classic Tank Normale design. It features a chemin de fer minute track and beautiful, elongated Roman numerals. Initially this design featured Breguet hands but it began to feature more modern sword-shaped hands later on.



The Tank Cintrée by Cartier London, dated to 1929 and gifted by Fred Astaire to his friend and racehorse trainer Felix Leach Jr, which had a dial with a combination of Arabic Numerals and chemin de fer minute track; this watch is presently part of the Cartier Collection

I actually hesitated to make this an entire dial variation and most likely would not have if Cartier had not decided to release an amazing, limited edition Tank Cintrée in 2004 that featured Arabic indexes and a minute track with 50 pieces in platinum and 150 pieces in yellow gold. But the most famous example of this design is, of course, the Tank Cintrée by Cartier London, dated to 1929 and gifted by Fred Astaire to his friend and racehorse trainer Felix Leach Jr. What is so famous about Fred Astaire’s Tank Cintrée is that it not only has Arabic numerals, but these numerals are also painted in luminous radium and complemented by radium-filled cathedral-style hands.

As far as I know, this was the first time Arabic numerals and hands of this style appeared on a Tank Cintrée. While there is speculation that “a few” such Tank Cintrées were made, I have never seen any other example beyond this. Because of its near-mythological, unicorn-status fame, the Fred Astaire Tank inspired the creation of the aforementioned 2004 limited edition; however, it should be noted that while the new watch featured Arabic indexes, they were not luminous. Also, instead of cathedral hands, both executions of the watch featured flame-blued Breguet hands.


The 2018 Tank Cintreé in platinum

The next use of Arabic indexes happens in 2018 with the creation of an all-new dial for the Tank Cintrée. This dial is actually quite remarkable in that it features a never-before-seen iconography that combines an Arabic “12” and “6” with baton markers and sword-shaped hands.


london

This is really the only other major design departure when it comes to the dial of the Tank Cintrée. This design was born in the ’60s at Cartier London and was used in both Tank Cintrée and elongated Tank models (a similar watch but less curved). It was clear that Cartier London was at its thrilling creative peak throughout the ’60s and ’70s, and it wanted to create a more modern, less Deco version of the Tank Cintrée in keeping with the times.


100

A 150 piece limited edition Tank Cintrée, in yellow gold and in the large size, powered with a hand wound mechanical movement; the watch was launched complete under the radar and directly to customers earlier in January 2021 and is already, completely, sold out.

Yellow gold case with ivory dial
Blue Breguet hands
Blue cabochon
46.3mm × 23mm × 6.4mm
Manual winding 9780 MC (based on Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 849)
Limited to 150 watches